9/16/2020

eboshi formal headgear

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eboshi えぼし, 烏帽子 official headgear




. tokin 頭巾. 頭襟 cap of a Yamabushi Mountain Ascetic .
It symbolizes the lotus which is on the top of the head of the Fudo Buddha.
When in town or during the ceremonies, the yamabushi can wear another cap: Eboshi (cap of the wing of the crow) the black cap of En-No-Gyoja, which has several folds like a Swatiska and a small protuberance to return the plait coiled on the top of the head.


quote
Eboshi refers to a class of hats seen from at least the Nara period. They are uniformally of black cloth, usually hemp or similar, and later versions even used paper. The black color gave them their name, the Chinese characters translating to “bird hat” because it resembled the feathers of a black bird. Originally they were soft and pliable, going around the head and covering the hair, while often falling back, a style which remained common with commoners and was known as nae-eboshi (pliable eboshi). Eventually, the fabric was starched and lacquered, such that it took on a tall, upright shape. For nobles allowed into the palace, or tenjōbito, the erect tate-eboshi was the preferred style, while the lower ranking jige made do with the rakish kazaori-eboshi. The shape varied with the rank and position of the wearer, but nonetheless these were everyday hats, as opposed to the formal kanmuri cronw.
As the bushi rose in power and stature, they initially adopted more refined versions of the nae-eboshi, such as the hikitate-eboshi, which was convenient for wearing under a kabuto, particularly with the way it often was tied on. As the movement towards a more strong, crisp appearance came into fashion with emondō the samurai adopted a folded ori-eboshi that became the iconic headwear for centuries to come.
Though originally of starched or lacquered cloth, which was light and semi-opaque, later eboshi used thickly lacquered cloth or even paper to achieve the appropriate appearance. This style can still be seen at Shinto shrines and festivals, even today.

Nae-eboshi (萎烏帽子)
Nae-eboshi, or “soft” eboshi, is most commonly seen on commoners and men without official court rank. These hats were so called because their black fabric was pliable, allowing them to bend and twist. Unlike the more heavily lacquered hats of the court nobles, they would not be expected to stand on their own. This style actually encompasses a number of hats that were later utilized, including the heirei-eboshi, the hitai-eboshi, and the hikitate-eboshi.

Tate-eboshi (立烏帽子)
The tate-eboshi, or “standing eboshi,” is your classic eboshi shape. Early Heian versions are usually tall, as seen here, and worn just off the back of the head (held in place by the motodori). For those without a motodori or similar hairstyle, the hat could incorporate cords that tie under the chin. These ties were thin, white cords that could be hidden in the eboshi construction or might be wrapped around the outside (particularly in later and smaller variations). These hats are typically straight along the sides, with a rounded, flat top. In the high center front there is a depression, called an “uya,” which helps the hat hold its shape. Around the rim it typically a band of leather or similar material where the hat rests on the head.
Though lacquered, the weave for the Heian period version was open, and the hat itself was only semi-opaque, much like any single layer of clothing.
..... There was also a smaller version, which was more practical, and appears to be the progenitor of later versions. .....

Kazaori-eboshi (風折烏帽子)
The name for this hat means “wind-swept eboshi,” referencing the way the top is folded as though knocked aside by the wind. It was worn by jige, the lower ranking courtiers.
This hat shares much in common with the tate-eboshi, being made of the same material and even the same base pattern. It may or may not have an uya, or central depression on the front, and hidden or visible cords may be used if needed, though ideally it should sit on the motodori and thus a little off the back of the head. Over time, the lacquered fabric (or even paper) became much more stiff and opaque, as can be seen in the example to the right.
This shouldn't be confused with the hikitate-eboshi, which was a type of nae-eboshi, and though it was often twisted or folded back, it is quite different.

Hikitate-eboshi (引立烏帽子)
The hikitate-eboshi is a type of nae-eboshi that was adopted by the warrior class as they rose to power. Much like the tate-eboshi, it is a tall hat, and it often stands up and away from the head. However, unlike the former, it is only lightly lacquered, so it remains pliable, and does not make use of the uya. It was favored by warriors as it could be worn, even underneath a kabuto, though as time went on there were certainly some more high class variants that likely would have suffered under such treatment. .....

Ori-eboshi (折烏帽子)
This eboshi, is a latecomer to the party. Derived from the nae-eboshi in conjunction with the “strong” aesthetic of the emondō fashion, this folded hat became the standard for the samurai. For that reason, it was also called a “samurai-eboshi". .....

Kanmuri
Isodaka no Kanmuri
Eitsubo no Kanmuri
Suiei no Kanmuri
Ken'ei no Kanmuri
Tokin (頭巾)
Kōburi
Kasa (笠)
Katō
Zukin
- Read the details here
source : sengokudaimyo.com/garb...


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Eboshi-yama Hokkaido
Eboshi-dake 烏帽子岳 in various regions
- - - - - Suzuka Gozen : She is also referred to as Tate Eboshi (立烏帽子), Suzuka Gongen (鈴鹿権現)


. tate-eboshi 立て烏帽子 and a Sanbaso dancer .
Osaka, Ikukunitama Shrine


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. Legends and Tales from Japan 伝説 - Introduction .

................................................................................. Fukui 福井県

. ryuutoo 龍燈 / 龍灯 / 竜灯 と伝説 Legends about Ryuto, "Dragon Lantern" .

eboshiiwa 烏帽子岩 Eboshi Iwa rock
In 天王村 Tenno village near the mountain side was a large rock. Every year on the New Year's day and the 16th day of the 7th lunar month there was a 龍燈 "dragon lantern" light seen moving over the mountain. Below it was the Eboshi Iwa Rock with a hole at its bottom. The dragon responsible for this fire lived in the ryuuguu 龍宮 Dragon Palace and the hole was connected to this palace.
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Shiba

. . Zoojooji, Zōjō-ji 増上寺 Temple Zojo-Ji . .




................................................................................. Tottori 鳥取県
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気高郡 Ketaka district

. The deity from the pond 水尻池 Mizushiri no Ike .




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- reference : nichibun yokai database 妖怪データベース -
28 烏帽子 (03)

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